Tuesday, August 23, 2011

PLANKED WHOLE FLOUNDER


Fresh flounder is mild and light-tasting, and in Eastern North Carolina, it's plentiful.  B&J's Seafood on Route 70 in James City is my go-to fish monger when hubby isn't catching.  They'll scale, clean and dress the flounder so it's ready to cook.  Harris Teeter sometimes has dressed whole flounder, too.  Planks can be purchased at Lowe's and at Harris Teeter.  Look for special sales.  For instance, at Harris Teeter, the planks go on special for $4.99 for a pack of two planks.  Sound pricey?  It's not too bad when you consider that you can use the planks several times.  After grilling, scrub the plank the way you would a pot, with dish detergent and water.  Dry and reuse until you can't.  Each of my planks last through about 4 uses.  The trick to this is to soak them longer than the recommended 1 hour.  Hubby starts soaking our plank in the morning for an evening use.


Don't be afraid to try this method of cooking fish.  It's very forgiving.  Even if you cook it a little too long, the fish will still be moist and tender.

Planked Whole Flounder
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INGREDIENTS:
1 grilling plank
1 whole dressed flounder with head and tail, about 1-1/2 lbs.
1-1/2 tsp. kosher or sea salt
1/2 tsp. black pepper
1 medium sweet onion, peeled, thinly sliced
1 lemon, thinly sliced
3-4 sprigs fresh parsley

Soak plank in a clean sink with warm water for at least 5 hours.  Weigh down with a gallon jug of water or a brick wrapped in tinfoil.

Heat gas grill to 400-425F.  Turn one burner off and maintain grill temperature at 400 - 425F.  Remove plank from water, drain.  Rinse fish under cold running water; pat dry with clean paper towels.  Approximating where fish will be on the plank, place onion and lemon slices and sprigs of parsley.  Sprinkle fish inside and out with salt and pepper.

Stuff fish cavity with onion and lemon slices and sprigs of parsley.  Place fish on plank over lemon and onion slices.  Tuck any stray lemon and onions slices under fish.  Use remaining onion and lemon slices for top of fish.

Place planked fish on turned-off burner; cover grill; cook about 40-45 minutes,or till fish skin is dry and papery and fish is cooked through.  You can check that the fish is cooked through by inserted a fork through the skin into the flesh.  The plank should not catch fire when used on a turned-off burner.  In the rare event that the plank should catch fire, just wet edges with a Tbsp. or two of water.  Transfer plank using grill mitts and tongs.  Let rest 5-10 minutes.


To serve:  Peel back skin; remove.


With fork, gently push fish away from the center of the bone towards the outside, exposing the bone.


Lift the bone and remove, exposing the bottom section of the fish.


A 1-1/2 lb. whole fish will serve 2-3 people.  Leftovers are delicious the next day, cold or heated.

Wednesday, August 10, 2011

Christoph's on the Water


I've voted Christoph's as the best breakfast place in New Bern, based on my criteria (level of service, ambiance, prices, and quality of food).  Four of us decided to try it for dinner.

The updating of their dining room is now complete, and the end result is lovely.  There is a sophisticated, yet homey feel in the quiet space, enhanced by a row of windows that looks out over the pool and dock area.

The china closet and sideboard add to the homey feel of the dining space.

Surprisingly, for a Thursday evening, the place was almost empty.  Christoph's is one of New Bern's best-kept secrets.  I asked the staff if they were aware that their phone number is not easily accessible.  They have no listing in the yellow pages under the restaurant heading.  Oddly, they were all unaware.

After we placed our orders, we were served salads with warm rolls and butter.  The rolls and butter were wonderful.

The salad was just a tad disappointing, with several wilted pieces of lettuce.  I found enough fresh, crispy lettuce to eat, though, as it was a good-sized salad.

Guy and I both ordered the daily special:  A tenderloin of beef with a lump crab cake, braised asparagus and Bearnaise sauce, for $22 each, including salad and rolls and butter.

The filet was cooked perfectly, the sauce was divine and the crab cake had wonderful flavor, though it did have more filler than I like.  The rich sauce permeated the meal, in a good way, without detracting from the meat, seafood or veggie.  I would definitely order this again.

Rita ordered the Parmesan & Herb Dusted Salmon with Portobello & Bliss Potato Hash, Wilted Greens and Charred Tomato Crema for $19.  Salad was not included, but rolls and butter were.  She ate every drop and said she enjoyed it.

Tom ordered the Braised Pork Shank with Sweet Potto Mash, Sugar Snap Peas and Cherry Balsamic Glaze for $20.  Salad was not included, but rolls and butter were.  He also ate every drop and said it was delicious.

Christoph's has an easy-to-read one-page dinner menu of Steaks, Seafood and House Specialties.  Honestly, I wanted one of everything.  Next time I may try the Sonoran Shrimp & Pepper Jack Grits,and Guy said he'll try the Four Peppercorn Rib Eye Steak.  But I also want to try the Lobster Ravioli, the Pan Seared Grouper, the Chicken Farfalle and the Smothered Pork Chops.  Heck, I want to try every single menu item.  I like the fact that Christoph's has three heart-healthy menu items to pick from.  We're definitely going back.  Prices are in line, food is good, service is great and we love the water views.  And the best part?  They're open 7 days a week.

Christoph's on the Water, located in the Hilton Hotel, 100 Middle Street, 252-638-0305. 
Open 7 days a week.

Thursday, July 28, 2011

THE WILD CUPCAKE -- NEW KID ON THE BLOCK


Since my 1993 entry into New Bern, this Yankee has been watching a sleepy Southern town slowly -- ever so slowly -- rub its eyes and begin its timid entry into 21st century gastronomy.  Upscale grocers emerged and were followed by farm-to-table restaurants.  Grass-fed beef and lamb and free range poultry became available at our local Farmer's Market.  And now, the latest newcomer is The Wild Cupcake.

Nicole, the owner of The Wild Cupcake, sells via the Farmer's Market and her website, and her cupcakes are anything but dull.  Flavors like S'Mores, Blueberries and Cream, Rose Cakes, Fillin' Nutty, Aloha Coconut, PB&J and Cha Cha Cherry are just a small sampling of the many creative concoctions that leave her kitchen on a regular basis.  While most bakeries are just glorified versions of the Wal-Mart Bakery Department, The Wild Cupcake is truly different and unique.


Judging from the line of fans keeping Nicole busy nowadays, I am guessing that The Wild Cupcake will be a New Bern favorite for years to come.

You can visit The Wild Cupcake at the New Bern Farmer's Market, Saturdays, 8AM - 2 PM, or at The Wild Cupcake website.

October, 2012 update:   Nicole has won Food Network's Cupcake Wars with rave reviews from the judges.  Way to go, Nicole!  New Bern is proud of you.

Tuesday, July 12, 2011

CRISPY WHOLE-GRAIN FRIED GREEN TOMATOES


Fried green tomatoes, a Southern staple, taste good whether they're hot from the pan, room temperature or cold.  Served hot with a drizzle of spicy mayo, they could just be the star of your dinner.  Room temperature or cold from the fridge, they're wonderful added to a meat or cheese sandwich or just munched as is.


I've taken a great recipe up a notch to bring some whole grains into the picture.  We have to sneak them in where we can, especially where they will go unnoticed.  If your family is averse to whole grains, please believe me when I say they will never know unless you tell them.  These tomatoes have a crispy, flavorful crust that's sure to please all fried green tomato enthusiasts.

Whole-Grain Fried Green Tomatoes
Rating:  9.5 out of 10
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INGREDIENTS:
1 large firm, green tomato
1 egg
2 Tbsp. milk
1 tsp. Tabasco
1/4 cup white whole wheat flour
1/4 cup whole-grain cornmeal
1/4 cup Panko bread crumbs
1 tsp. coarse kosher salt
1/4 tsp. ground black pepper
2 big pinches cayenne pepper
1 cup vegetable oil for frying

Slice tomato 1/2" thick; discard ends.  You should have about 6 large slices.  In shallow bowl, whisk together egg, milk and Tabasco.  On a sheet of wax paper, measure flour.  On another sheet of wax paper, combine cornmeal, Panko and seasonings.  Dredge tomato slices into flour to coat; shake off excess.  Then dip coated slices into into egg/milk mixture.  Finally, dredge slices in Panko mixture to completely coat.  As you coat the slices, lay them on a wire rack.  Pour vegetable oil in a heavy skillet (cast iron works well).  You should have 1/2" of oil in the pan.  Heat oil over medium heat.  When oil is hot, fry slices in batches of 3 or 4, leaving plenty of room for them to fry.  They should not be touching each other in the pan.  Fry till browned, then flip them and fry them on the other side.  Drain on paper towels and enjoy.

Tuesday, June 28, 2011

SAMMY'S ICE HOUSE, MOREHEAD CITY


Trip Advisor is a great resource when you're looking for a restaurant, especially in an unfamiliar area.  Reviews for Sammy's Ice House were good -- so good that we decided to give it a try.  Right on the beach, Sammy's has a perfect location.  They're set up for drinking, with the bar taking center stage.

There are no booths, just small but adequate bar tables with bar stools.

Guy and I both wanted crab cakes.  He ordered the sandwich with fries for $10.95.

I ordered the crab cake by itself, no roll, no fries, for $8.95.

The crabcakes were huge, full of crabmeat and deep fried.  The flavor was good and the crab meat was tender and creamy.  Our server said the crab cakes were hand mixed and fresh, and it was obvious that they were.  Guy's french fries were disappointingly undercooked, though, and not a bit crispy.

The servers at Sammy's are uber friendly, but check your bill carefully because they do make mistakes.
At the risk of being told once again that I'm ugly, I will say that I am wondering how Sammy's got such good reviews on Trip Advisor.  The place is just okay for hub and me and we don't plan to return.  Around the corner is Rap's, a bar with good food, friendly service and lower prices .  Right across the street is Ruddy Duck with good food, good atmosphere and more food choices for about the same price.

Update March, 2012:  Sammy's Ice House is no longer open for lunch.  

Thursday, June 23, 2011

TAYLOR'S TEXAS STYLE BARBECUE

Take-out from Taylor's Texas Style Barbecue
In New Jersey, and the rest of the Northeast, pork barbecue is not a big item.  Being honest, I've never become a fan of places like Smithfield or Moore's.  So when I saw an ad for a new barbecue place, I didn't get excited.  When hubby was away on a fishing trip recently, not wanting to cook, I decided to give Taylor's a try.  The location, practically walking distance from Greenbrier, was just too convenient.

The inside of Taylor's is just what you would expect for a barbecue place:  stripped down and basic with no frills.  They offer plates of brisket, beef or pork ribs, 1/2 chicken, sasuage, pulled pork and chopped brisket, as well as sandwiches with chips.  Side dishes include cole slaw, potato salad, green beans, macaroni salad and boiled potatoes.  No surprises there.  You can also buy apple or peach cobbler by the pound or in individual servings.

I placed my to-go order at the counter:  a plate of pulled pork with cole slaw, green beans and red sauce.  "Do you want pinto beans?" I was asked.  Taylor's sets out a big pot of pinto beans that dine-in customers can help themselves to.  I nodded in the affirmative.

First off, let me say that the pork had a pure, fresh taste that was delightful.  The texture was too shredded for me -- I prefer chopped barbecue.  But the taste of the pork was so good, I could overlook the texture.  The green beans were Southern style -- cooked to death with fatback -- but tasty.  The coleslaw was also very fresh tasting and good.

And the pinto beans -- well, they were the star.  No sugar added, just nice plain pinto beans.  Very tasty.
Pinto Beans at Taylor's Texas Barbecue
How well Taylor's will do in this little Southern town is a question.  Locals are partial to East Carolina vinegary pepper sauce (which is quite delicious, I must admit), and Smithfield and Moore are firmly entrenched in New Bern.  But, honestly, on another night when I don't feel like cooking, I might just go back and get some more of this Texas-style barbecue -- and those pinto beans.

Taylor's Texas Style BBQ, 1904-E S. Glenburnie Road, New Bern (252) 649-1602
Monday thru Thursday:  11AM to 8PM   (Check for daily lunch specials, 11 - 2 Mon - Fri)
Friday and Saturday:  11AM to 9PM
Sunday:  CLOSED

Wednesday, June 15, 2011

CHOCOLATE-RASPBERRY BIRTHDAY CAKE FOR MY FRIEND, MICKEY


The question was innocent enough:  "Do you know where I can buy a birthday cake for Mickey?"  Whether it was a loaded question or not, Mickey's husband liked my answer:  "I'll be happy to make one."  Our friends, Mickey and Tom are very forgiving when it comes to food.  I know they remembered the cake I made for their son, Ian, when he had his birthday.  The chocolate cream filling didn't set right and turned runny.  They said they loved it.  And now I was offering to make another cake.  But I was sure I could redeem myself.  At least I wanted to try.


My only cake pans are 8".  They're the old ones with the low sides, and I only have two.  I eyeballed about 2/3 of the batter to fill the pans.  When they came out of the oven, I quickly washed and dried one and filled it with the remaining batter, which turned out to be more like half instead of one third.  Oh, well, I thought, I can put the big layer in the middle.  No one will know.  I know now it was an omen.


The evening before, I had made the custard for the frosting and refrigerated it.  It was smooth and creamy and looked great.  I softened the butter and beat it with sugar, then slowly added the chilled custard.  It looked wonderful, but maybe just a tad stiff.  Since I wanted this cake to be absolutely perfect, I decided to add some heavy cream to thin it a little.  Somewhere in the dark recesses of my mind, a thought tried to break through:  whip the cream first and then add it.  I pushed the thought down and slowly added some cream to the frosting.  And it kind of.....seized.  Just like chocolate.  It was no longer creamy and smooth.  It was now curdled looking and the solids were separating from the liquids.

My plan had been to fill and frost the entire cake with this wonderful stuff that was now looking not so wonderful.  Plan B was already being formed in the same brain that just pulled off the biggest goof in cake making:  use the curdled frosting for the filling and top; cover the top with raspberries and frost the sides with chocolate buttercream.  Everyone will look at the raspberries instead of the curdled frosting.  I hope.

Mickey noticed, but didn't say anything till I mentioned it.  Our friend, Mark, couldn't get enough of it, because the flavor really was great.  It was best eaten with eyes closed though.

My cake was crooked, the custard frosting was curdled, and the perfectionist was not perfect on this day.  Maybe the third time will be the charm?


Here's the recipe, in case you want to give it a try:

Chocolate-Raspberry Cake with Two Frostings
Rating:  9 out of 10 
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Custard Frosting and Filling:
1/3 cup cornstarch
1 cup low-fat milk
1 cup heavy whipping cream
1/3 cup sugar
1 beaten large egg
1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
2 tsp. raspberry extract
1 Tbsp. raspberry liqueur (nips available at ABC store)
1 cup (2 sticks) butter, very soft
1 cup confectioner's sugar

In 1-1/2 quart saucepan, whisk cornstarch, milk, cream, sugar, egg and flavorings till smooth.  Cook over medium heat till thick, stirring frequently with whisk.  Remove from heat and place pot in tray of ice water.  Whisk till cool.  (At this point, custard can be refrigerated overnight, if desired.)

Beat butter and confectioner's sugar together with electric mixer; add cooled custard and beat till smooth and creamy.  (If you need to add more cream, be sure to whip it separately first before adding.) Refrigerate frosting for about 1/2 hour to help it spread better.  This  is enough to fill and frost a three-layer cake.  


Chocolate Cake:
1 Duncan Hines Butter Recipe Fudge cake mix, or your favorite chocolate cake recipe

Make as package directs, substituting coffee in place of water.  Make three layers.

Chocolate Frosting:
2 oz. (2 squares) Baker's unsweetened chocolate, chopped
3 to 3-1/4 cups sifted confectioner's sugar
1/3 cup milk or heavy cream
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter or margarine, very soft
2 tsp. pure vanilla extract
1/2 tsp. coffee essence (equal parts coffee and coffee liqueur)
1/4 tsp. sea salt

In small heat-proof bowl, melt chocolate pieces over simmering water till melted.  (Place the bowl over a pot of simmering water so that the lip of the bowl covers the lip of the pot.  It is important to keep steam or liquid away from melted chocolate, or it will seize.)  Cool slightly.

In medium  bowl, beat 3 cups sugar, milk, butter, vanilla, coffee essence and salt till smooth.  Slowly add cooled chocolate and continue beating till smooth and creamy.  Add up to 1/4 cup additional sugar, if needed, to make frosting of spreading consistency.

Other Ingredients
About 2/3 cup seedless raspberry jam or fruit spread
2 Tbsp. raspberry liqueur
2 half-pint containers fresh raspberries

Heat raspberry jam with liqueur over medium-low heat for a few minutes, till jam thins and smooths out.  Stir with spoon. Cool slightly.  Rinse raspberries and place, hollow side down, on several thicknesses of paper towels.  Top with additional paper towels.  Allow to dry.

Assemble the cake:  Place first layer on serving plate with pieces of waxed paper a few inches under, so that the paper pulls out easily when you are done frosting the cake.  This makes for easy cleanup and a neater bottom.  Spread about 3-1/2 Tbsp. jam over top of first layer, leaving about 1/2" to 1" open around the outside edges.  Top with some of the custard frosting also leaving 1/2" to 1" open..  Repeat with two more layers.  Frost sides of cake with chocolate buttercream frosting.  Place dried raspberries over top of custard frosting.  Pipe additional chocolate frosting decoratively around edges.
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